Albania

            So now im off the touristic Adriatic coastline and moving through Albania, Kosovo, and through more of the Balkans.  Its funny but after 5000kms and 55000 meters of cycling through Europe its only now that i feel like im really traveling.  Im loving it!  It happened when i crossed over from Montenegro to Albania.  The smells of suntan lotion blowing off shore and the early morning beach marches changed to a mixture of scents not too familiar, even a bit funky. The streets now were filled with bicycles, donkey carts, motor bikes, and of course the godforsaken Mercedes Benz .  Ok, now im getting somewhere i thought to myself.   I stop at a local cafe to get out of the sun and have a coffee.   A few locals call over to me and in mixed english/russian welcome me into their country.   The first night was fairly uneventful staying at a campground just outside of Shkodor.  I made a tour of the city first, which reminded me of a few towns in Morocco, then enjoyed riding into the evening.   The best time to travel on the bike is early morning or evening when the locals are starting or finishing their work. In this case im watching the farmers harvesting their crops, donkey carts off in the distant fields laden down with hay or vegetables.  These are special moments for me and i take my time getting to camp.   

         I start the next day climbing into the hills.  Its great cycling over the passes here in Albania because all of the roads were constructed low incline for the donkey carts.  I cruse up the switchbacks which are much easier than the swiss alps but of course there are twice as many, a little mental trickery.  By the end of the day im pretty burnt out and start to look for a place in the wild to camp.   The sun is setting and i feel my body finally starting to cool off.   "You just cant jump into the sea anymore, you need to toughen up, your going to and through southern turkey in the summer." i  tell myself.   I notice a girl on the roadside herding some goats and stop.  She says hello and speaks some english, where she is from and how far the next town is.  I notice as she saunters through the ferns that she is collecting something close to the ground and ask what this is.  Its not long before she is holding out the palm of here hand full of berries.  Im thinking they are maybe wild strawberries or something like this, very tasty.  So i thank her for the info and the berries and continue up the road eventually reaching the town of Rrape.  I notice a farm on the hillside and ride over to the house just beside it.  An old man is standing outside smoking and saying something in russian i cant understand.  Then a woman comes out and addresses me in Italian and then English.  I tell here my story and that im looking for a spot to set my tent for the evening.  She is helpful which has usually been my experience asking locals for a place to camp or whatever.  I had the greatest view of the mountains and the sunset from this small bench Anna lead me to.  I enjoyed watching the sun setting and of course feeding this incredible appetite of mine.  

         Im sort of in this haze looking out at this sunset when a man walks up to the bench and introduces himself.  Edmond spoke no English at all and after some sign language it was clear he was inviting me to come stay with him.  Without hesitation i collected my things and followed him to his house were he treated me to a great Albanian experience.  The cottage was cozy but immaculately cleaned and i noticed the wood stove burning in the corner of the living room.  I was introduced to Edmonds wife Katelina and their small child then invited to sit and watch a video of their wedding on this vcr.  Edmond and i started watching this video and then the food came out, pasta with fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, fried sausage, fresh wood oven baked bread, local cow cheese, and this strong vodka like alcohol drink called Rike.  At first glance the bottle looked like a perfume container, and i guess the second one did too.  After all Albania is a little strange. Well after the 5th shot and 2 hour of this entertainment i was managing fairly well.  I ate plenty and finally the film ended, what a relief.  Fresh strawberries for desert, a hot shower, a couch to sleep on, and a dream come true for a wondering traveler.  This is what its all about.